Today, Thursday June 16th, we have been little over one week in the Marquesas after a passage of 22 days from the Galapagos. It was 6.30 PM when we dropped our anchor in Taahuku bay on Hiva Oa. We anchored temporarily outside the bay because there were too many boats and it was already dark.We immediately smelled
the scent of many flowers, the scenery of steep green mountains dropping in the sea was just gorgeous. We were happy we could finally sleep together again! Although the passage went fine I would not like to do it again!
We only stayed 2 nights in the bay because there was just not enough room for all the boats. We were anchored in between 2 yachts with a stern anchor and thus had to do the same. As the wind was coming from all directions it pulled hard on the rope of the stern anchor and at 7 AM we heard it snap! Stefan fixed it , but at 9 PM we noticed the stern anchor was loose and we were drifting closer to our neighbour. Again Stefan had to go out with Flipper and fix it! We did not sleep well 2 nights in a row. Luckily during the two days we were able to check in at immigration. The check in was only one piece of paper and free. What a nice difference from South America! We visited the town of Atuona and the cemetary with the graves from Paul Gauguin and Jacques Brel. They are burried amidst beautifull and peacefull scenery. We were able to buy fresh butter, cream, french bread, frozen lamb and frozen vegetables in a small grocery store, all expensive but at least some change from the c
hiken, fish and rice we had been eating!
We left Hiva Oe on saturday morning and sailed with sun and wind to Tahuata, Hana Moe Noa Bay. Moe Noa means “long sleep” exactly what I needed now. The scenery all along the trip was really superb. Huge steep, green covered clffs that rise out of deep blue water! After barely 2 hours of sailing we arrived in the bay, there were 4 other boats, it was stunning. A white sandy beach with palm trees at the end and on both sides of the bay mountains with green grass, shrubs and palm trees. This was like paradise. We went snorkeling and walked on the beach, enjoyed the beautifull sunset and had a great dinner with lamb on the barbecue. This was perfect! We stayed two days and then visited two more bays on the island. So close to each other but completely different scenery. Resolution Bay (also called Baie de Putain by the french, you can surely find the story behind this on internet as it is too long to tell here) with the town of Vaitahu and Hapatoni Bay with the towns of Tefau and Hapatoni. We hiked in both bays and the views are really breathtaking. The nature is so pure. Very few cars and not so many people. The people are friendly, they all speak french with an accent, but they are reserved. We traded 15 liters gasoline for a bag of grapefruits, two huge stalks of bananas, papaya, pineapple, oranges and coconut. We are eating lots of bananas these days and banana cake! After the snorkeling this morning we left Tahuata to go back to Hiva Oa because we have to get to a bank to get dollars changed in French Polynesian francs. There are only two banks in the Marquesas, on Hiva Oa and on Nuku Hiva which we will visit later. So tonight we are again anchored right outside the bay of Taahuku. We are not alone as the huge cargo-passenger ship Aranui 5 is docked inside the harbour. It comes once every three weeks with tourists and supplies. Hopefully we can leave by noon tomorrow for another bay and more beautifull scenery!