Categorie archieven: ilse

Navigation in the Tuamotus

Today is sunday July 24th. We arrived yesterday in Makemo (Tuamotus) after a 3 day grueling passage ! We knew it was not going to be a smooth one since a lot of wind was predicted. We had a constant wind of 22-28 KTS on the beam but the waves came from everywhere making it a very uncomfortable passage. I felt nauseous the first 48 hours and the only thing I wanted to do is lay down and sleep. After the second day Stefan convinced me to take a pill against motion sickness. Two hours later I felt fine and enjoyed a cup of Ramen chicken noodle soup ! The first day we already caught a beautifull yellowfin tuna, food for 4 days !!! We arrived at 9AM but could only go through the pass at around 1PM, when it was slack tide. Navigating in the Tuamotus is not just sailing from one atoll to the next. Most atolls have one or two passes where you can enter but these have very strong tidal currents (8-9 KTS) which reverse 4 times a day. At slack tide, just between high and low tide, this current is at its lowest and sometimes even zero for 15 minutes. It is important you enter the pass when the current is low so you keep control over your boat! After we had been in “heave to” for about one hour we decided to slowly move towards the pass and have a look. We arrived around 12.30 PM and it looked fine to go in. We still had a counter current of 2 KTS but this was manageable, now we just had to navigate through the different reefs. Luckily the sun was out and we could clearly see them and they were very well marked ! Needless to say we were happy when we finally anchored and were able to sit back and enjoy the scenery !

IMG_0825
Sanuk at anchor in Makemo.
IMG_0790
On approaching the pass into the atoll of Makemo. Deep blue water.
IMG_0795
Reefs on starboard side, clearly visible by the sun and the markers.
IMG_0792
Reefs on port side.
IMG_0798
We took out our bycicles and did a tour of the atoll. This is main street in Makemo.
IMG_0810
Lots of coconut trees as copra is the main industry on the atolls.
IMG_0811
Crystal clear water in all shades of blue.
IMG_0820
Wind generators that were never finished. The money disappeared in somebody’s pocket…
IMG_0875
More dancing at the Heiva (whole month of july) festivities in Makemo.
IMG_0964
Miss election for the little ones…the winner for the girls.
IMG_0978
Winner for the boys.
IMG_0989
I was asked to be on the jury for the Miss and Mr Makemo election.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Dinner in one of the “baraques” with our friends from the New Zealand boat Aislado. Left of Stefan is Tahi a local from Makemo.
IMG_0834
Sunset in Makemo.
Karta_FP_Tuamotus_isl
The following weeks we will be travelling, weather permitting, to the atolls of Tahanea, Faakarava, Toau, Apataki, Ahe, Manihi, Rangiroa and Tikehau.

The Tuamotus (meaning the Distant Islands) consist of about 80 atolls. These coral atolls are ancient volcanoes where the gradually sinking cone has been surmounted by coral reefs. You only see blue lagoons. It is like a lake surrounded by a string of narrow islands called motus.

Just before leaving Hakahetau Bay on Ua Pou,

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Dinner at “Chez Tipiero”, winner at the barbecue contest in France for the “Porc”. Dinner was one of the best in the Marquesas.
IMG_0765
Lunch at Yvonne Hokaupoko’s little garden of Eden.
IMG_0751
Part of the lunch is breadfruit, cooked in the fire.
IMG_0762
Yvonne peeling the cooked breadfruit. We do not care too much for this, dry and no real taste to it.
IMG_0769
Weaving with coconut leaves.
IMG_0771
I had a try….
IMG_0755
Yvonne weaves mats and hats from dried pandalus leaves. I ended up buying a nice mat for the boat. They are not cheap but it is a lot of work to finish, all manual labor. I am happy with a great souvernir from the Marquesas !

 

Getting ready for the Tuamotus

Today, saturday, July 17th, we are at Hakahau Bay on Ua Pou getting ready to end our beautiful time at the Marquesas and sail to the Tuamotus. We arrived here on July 13th after a difficult sailing trip from Nuku Hiva, with lots of squals, wind, sun and rain but we learned a lot.

IMG_0562
Still sailing in the sun but you see from afar what is coming towards you. Winds pick up to 7 beaufort and lots of water are dumped on the boat but it only lasts 5-10 minutes.We had several of those and thus it was a day of active sailing!
IMG_0564
Sailing to Ua Pou with Hatiheu in the background.
IMG_0653
Sanuk at Hakahau Bay on Ua Pou.

We arrived just in time for the 14th of july celebrations and enjoyed the free bar from 10 AM till 12 (lunch) with the marquesians. Stefan and I enjoyed people watching while they were singing, playing the ukulele, dancing and enjoying being with their friends and family.

IMG_0581
Almost all the women had flowers in their hair.
IMG_0611
Always smiling…

IMG_0593
Children who were at camp joined in the singing.
IMG_0637
The local band having fun playing the ukulele and singing.
IMG_0616
Not only flowers are everywhere but also tatoos…
IMG_0622
All the little cafes were beautifully decorated…

Before leaving Nuku Hiva we enjoyed two more bays on Nuku Hiva, Hakatea and Anaho Bay. We saw more traditional dancing at Taiohae Bay and had lunch at the home of Monette and Mathias. We hiked to Vaipo waterfall from Hakatea.We had lunch at  restaurant Chez Yvonne in Hatiheu Bay after a hike from Anaho Bay and met with world travellers Jacques and Michelle.

IMG_0352
Hakatea Bay on Nuku Hiva.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Sanuk in Hakatea Bay.
IMG_0319
Manta ray (Manta Birostris)in Hakatea bay. We saw 6 of them around the boat. They are huge, friendly creatures. At Bora Bora we will be able to swim with them…They can reach up to 7m in width.
IMG_0345
Local in an outrigger canoe in Hakatea bay.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Hiking to Vaipo waterfall.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Little chapel on our way to Vaipo waterfall.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Nicolas and Jean-Pierre hiked a part of the way with us to the waterfall.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Vaipo waterfall, free fall cascade of over 300meter. Apparently the third highest waterfall in the world.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Vaipo waterfall hiding behind the rockformations. Actually we were off limits terrain as there were warnings for falling rocks. For Stefan this was a good reason to continue…
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
At Vaipo waterfall.
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
Finally made it to Vaipo waterfall.
IMG_0359
We had a wonderful lunch at Monette and Matthias house in Hakatea bay.
IMG_0369
Getting Flipper back after lunch at low tide.
IMG_0404
More traditional dancing at Taiohae bay.

IMG_0440

IMG_0466
Anaho bay on Nuku Hiva.
IMG_0474
Beach on Anaho bay.
IMG_0483
Childrens camp, weaving clothes for a traditional dance performance for their parents.
IMG_0488
Hiking to Hatiheu with a view on Anaho Bay.
IMG_0491
Lots of mud but also beautiful scenery on our walk to Hatiheu.
IMG_0495
We arrived at Hatiheu just before a downpour !
IMG_0501
With Jacques and Michelle at famous restaurant Chez Yvonne in Hatiheu.