Alle berichten van ilse Strickx

Aqui velero Sanuk

Friday, december 4th, we are in the marina of Santa Marta Colombia ! Hard to believe it is almost one month since we last updated our blog…We arrived here on monday november 30th after four days of smooth sailing.

We took the bus on tuesday, November 24th in the morning to Willemstad and checked out of Curacao. It was definitely time to leave the Spanish Waters and Curacao! Now was a good weather window. Not too much wind ! The sailing from Aruba to Santa Marta is known as a difficult passage when there is too much wind. We did some shopping in Willemstad, took some pictures and went for a quick stop at the Netto bar in Otrobanda. King Willem-Alexander was here in November 2013 with Maxima. We were back by 4PM, got diesel for the boat and left for Fuik bay just next to Spanish Waters so we could leave early the next morning for Aruba.

IMG_0290
On one of our many bicycle trips we visited an aloe plantation. It is incredible how many vitamins in this plant !

IMG_0288

Aan de ingang van de Kura Hullanda in Otrabanda.
At the entrance of the Kura Hulanda museum. It is an anthropological museum with a nice collection of African art.
IMG_0334
Had to take a seat with other great ones of the earth ! 🙂
IMG_0332
A walk through Otrabanda, lots of colourful houses, some need a bit of work.
IMG_0357
When the pontoon bridge is open, a ferry will take to the other side.
IMG_0367
Lots of colours in town !
IMG_0370
Unesco heritage site of Curacao.
IMG_0304
On the pontoon bridge in Willemstad (Punda)
IMG_0338
The many faces from Willemstad.
IMG_0326
Stefan in front of The Netto Bar.
IMG_0372
Stefan with  Annette and Jacques from the vessel Panache at the Netto Bar. We checked out on the same day.

Wednesday, November 25th, a great day of sailing to Aruba although in the end we had to motor to make sure we would be able to anchor in Charles Bay before sunset ! An ugly site but a remote place so we could avoid to check into Aruba ! We stayed only for the night !  As you can see from the pictures not all bays are romantic getaways :-), but we got a good night sleep.

IMG_0386
Not really a romantic getaway ! Our anchorage in Aruba.
IMG_0393
Just outside Aruba many tankers were waiting to go to harbour. They are huge !

 

Thursday, November 26th, we left around 9am to sail to Cabo De la Vela in Colombia, about 24hours of sailing. It was really smooth sailing all the way, sometimes not enough wind. Stefan caught a barracuda after several missed attempts. We had caught a mahi-mahi but when Stefan had him up the steps he escaped 🙁 (I was too slow with the net), we also lost a complete lure to an unknown fish…Anyway with the barracuda we had food for 3 nights except that some barracuda are poisened with Ciguaterra toxin. Ciguatera toxin is a heat-stable lipid soluble compound, produced by dinoflagellates and concentrated in fish organs, that can cause nausea, pain, cardiac, and neurological symptoms in humans when ingested. The toxin may be found concentrated in large reef fish, most commonly barracuda, grouper, red snapper, eel, amberjack, sea bass, and Spanish mackerel. These fish live in coral reef waters and accumulate the toxin when they eat smaller reef fish which feed on the dinoflagellates. The area of concern include the Caribbean Sea (where we fished it ) Hawaii, and coastal Central America. As the toxin is not deadly we decided to keep the fish and try…We were lucky 🙂 ! The first piece we had so far (other two are still in the freezer) was delicious and we did not get sick.

Friday, November 27th, around 8 AM we arrived at Cabo de la Vela, South America ! All the fishermen were out with their nets so we had to be carefull and navigate between the plasic bottles on which the nets were attached. We anchored and enjoyed the view ! It was windy, about 25 KTS and the kite surfers were having fun. We were happy to go to bed :-). At 2 PM we decided to go to shore with flipper, we realised when we were halfway to shore we left the fuel on the boat ! We were able to start and take off with what was left in the motor…we had to row back to the boat ! As soon as we arrived with flipper, children from the Wayuu Indians came to greet us. This is definitely a place off the grid ! Only backpackers and kite surfers come here. So laid back, so basic. The huts from the Wayuu indians are made from the inside of the dagger cactus.

IMG_0405
Cabo de la vela where the Wayuu indians live.
IMG_0412
Hut made from the inside of the dagger cactus.
IMG_0415
I wonder where these doves come from!
IMG_0427
The main road in Cabo de la Vela.
IMG_0422
Just new !
IMG_0433
A “tienda” with the “mochillas” they make.

Saturday, November 28th, we leave at 9 AM to sail to Bahia de Cinto, the first bay in Tayrona National Park, we calculate about 22 hours of sailing. A nice day of sailing but no sun, just at sundown Stefan spots a dolphin right next to the boat. Soon we have 5 dolphins at the bow of the boat swimming and making turns under the water. What a great sight ! They stay with us for about an hour. The night went by quickly and at dawn I noticed the dark clouds surrounding us. I checked on the radar and indeed there was rain in the air. I woke up Stefan to see if we needed to take back sail for squals to come but we decided to wait it out. We got plenty of water over the boat but the wind only increased to 20 KTS ! Oufff ! It rained for about 2 hours on and off and when we arrived at Bahia de Cinto we saw some blue spots in the sky but it was still foggy. What a beautiful bay ! We anchored close to shore, we were there all alone. We closed up the boat and went to bed as soon as we anchored and the anchor was fixed.

IMG_0441
Bahia de Cinto in Tayrona National Park, Colombia.
IMG_0439
Bahia de Cinto.

Trouble in Spanish Waters !

Sunday, November 8th, we woke up with really loud music at 6.45 AM coming from the boardwalk. Apparently there was a sport happening which started early ! Luckily after an hour the music died, we had an early start on our sunday.
We had decided that on our last day in Bonaire we would go to Lac Bay, a nice beach. We left around 10 AM with our bicycles, our e-readers and beach gear. It was an hour ride against the wind. But we enjoyed the scenery.

uitstap naar lacbaai ilse verjaardag (14)
On the way to Lac Bay.
uitstap naar lacbaai ilse verjaardag (8)
The beach at Lac Bay !
uitstap naar lacbaai ilse verjaardag (9)
Perfect atmosphere at the beach restaurant !

When we got there we immediately checked with the little bar if we needed to make reservations for the food. We were early and could pick out a nice spot on the beach. The colour of the water was intense blue and two pelicans were looking for some fish. There was a nice breeze, clouds and sun, the water temperature was 28 Celsius, I finished a new book, Het kleine meisje van Meneer Lin from Philippe Claudel. A short nice story, I enjoyed it. Definitely recommended for a short reading. We had fried fish with corn pudding and rice for lunch and there was a band with guitar singing in spanish, the restaurant was packed. The atmosphere was really great ! We swam, fell asleep and went back home at 4 PM to arrive at the boat just in time for a shower and a cocktail at sunset 🙂 . What a great way to end our time in Bonaire.
Monday, November 9th, Stefan checked out at the marina and at immigration so we could leave around noon to Little Curacao about 28 NM. The weather was nice, lots of wind and sun. We managed to get there at 3.30 PM, did a little faster than 7 KTS with winds of 20-25 KTS, great sailing ! When we arrived there was one tourist boat who just left and then we were alone…again incredibly blue-greenish water. A deserted lighthouse, a ship wreck and two closed bars was all there was to see. We enjoyed the peace and quiet. Around 6 PM our neighbours from Bonaire arrived (Italians) and at 9 PM another boat anchored in the dark. The anchorage was rolly but it did not bother us.

klein curacao2 (9)
Hopefully we can avoid this ….shipwreck on Klein Curacao.
klein curacao2 (3)
Deserted lighthouse on Klein Curacao.
klein curacao2 (14)
Sanuk in the sunset on Klein Curacao.

Tuesday, November 10th, we went snorkelling in the morning to see the turtles but did not see any..it was only when we were back on the boat that we saw 5 turtles swimming around the boat ! It was a nice anchorage but we wanted to go to Curacao. We left at 2 PM and arrived two hours later in Fuik Baai, we were the only sail boat. There were some small motor boats fishing and enjoying the bay but they all left at 5 PM. All alone again 🙂 We watched 3 episodes from The Americans (3rd season) outside on the terrace with a cup of tea and speculoos under a beautiful starry sky. Life is beautiful !
Wednesday, November 11th, time to go to Spanish Waters, the anchorage on Curacao,

We are anchored in zone A, top right corner. During the night we were anchored outside the A-zone, on the “K’ from ‘dock’…You can see why I wanted to move as soon as it was daylight !

used by most cruisers. We got there in less than 1 hour, since it was so short we only got the genoa out and motored. The entrance was not easy to see but we managed well. Only when we got there it was full with boats… I got nervous already because the anchorage space is well defined and with a wind of 20KTS you need enough chain so enough room to anchor. We found a good spot and anchored in two times so I was happy. After anchoring we stayed a couple hours on the boat before going to shore. Stefan checked the anchor but could not see anything because the water was too muddy. There was one other boat with the Belgian flag ! We went ashore to check out if we could use our bicycles, got our emails, whatsapped with family and got a drink. When we returned we were not sure if our boat did not move…The boat in front of us “Panache” swinged a lot on his anchor and we had a hard time to decide. At 6.30 PM, chicken was just in the oven, Stefan was sure the anchor was dragging ! There was just a little light when we decided to re-anchor…Picking up the anchor when it has dragged is not as easy as thought because with all those boats around there are a lot of anchors around too ! At one moment, we got so close to Panache that we were going to hit the boat….Stefan kept his cool and got out the fender and I a second one so we could avoid any damage, our anchor had dragged under their boat ! Immediately there were three other cruisers helping us recovering the anchor, Belgians and Dutch. By then it was dark and we had to find a better spot and re-anchor…we decided not to go all around the anchorage and look for a better spot but we anchored a little further from our first spot with the disadvantage that we were in the channel ! Needless to say we both did not have a good night sleep. We set our alarm every 3 hours to check and I ended up checking every 2 hours. We did not move 🙂 but we clearly had to move the boat as soon as it was daylight and boat traffic would pick up !
Thursday, November 12th, at 6 AM I said to Stefan lets move the boat! At 7 AM we had picked up the anchor and had plotted the GPS coordinates from the anchorage in our Raymarine plotter. We took our time and went all around the other side where we found a perfect spot ! Lots of room and close to a dinghy dock. At 8 AM we enjoyed our breakfast in our new spot in 4 meter water and with 40 meter chain! We stayed on the boat all morning to make sure he did not move. At noon we decided it was time to go to Willemstad and officially check-in. The bicycle ride was further than we thought . No bike path and lots of traffic. When we finally got in Willemstad we could not find the immigration and customs office….We asked around but did not get the right directions…Just when we were about to return to the boat and give up we found the immigration office 🙂 . In 20 minutes we had our stamps and were checked in, now get our anchor permit and go to customs to clear in. We could not get our anchor permit without first clearing into customs, which was located on the other side of the river…At customs we had a very slow custom official and it took her 45 minutes to clear us in. Stefan stayed very calm and answered all her questions politely 🙂 . It was 4 PM when we sat down at the Iguana cafe, got lunch and checked our mails ! We arrived back at the boat just before sunset and the boat did not move ! 🙂 I slept like a rose.

IMG_0278
Willemstad (Unesco Heritage), more pictures to follow.

Willemstad, more pictures to follow on our next visit.

IMG_0271
Queen Emma, pontoon bridge over St.Anna bay.
IMG_0273
Lost in the streets of Willemstad, but beautiful colonial houses.
IMG_0275
Streets in Willenstad, looking for immigration.